People are Great

After finally making it to the somewhat-halfway-ish point, I can say proudly that we’ve made it this far!  Whether we’ve cabbed ahead, stayed behind, skipped a few days, miles or hours of sleep — we’re feeling half exhausted and half excited.  We’ve officially cancelled all reservations except our stay in Santiago.  So I guess this is the part where we pack up and head home or we power through.  I’d like to refer to this point as the “hump day” of the Camino.

This is where everyone reading this needs to go find the Geico commercial on Youtube called, “Happy as a Camel on Wednesday” and thank me later.

You all know what I’m referring to.  Every week when Wednesday rolls around the mentality is, “If I can just make it through today, it’s basically the weekend.”  Well, that is how I’m feeling about this trip right now.  We’ve reached hump day and if we make it through, we’re golden.  mikemikemikemikemikemikemike.

The other night my mom and I were laying in bed, tucked away in our tiny twin cocoons, and I mentioned to her that this part of the trip reminded me a bit of my freshman year of college.  I figured I’d already paid my dues in sleeping in twin beds, eating bad cafeteria food and feeling homesick but that isn’t quite what I was referring to.  I’m referring to the “hump day” of college.  I remember spending the first couple months of the semester trying to adjust and having a really hard time.  I’d never lived away from home, I didn’t know a single person at my new school, my roommate was colder than the other side of the pillow… throw a long distance relationship in the mix and you have a very unhappy Freshman girl in college.  I understand Freshman year of college is known for being a difficult adjustment.  I’m not sharing this story to stand out or ask for sympathy, I think everyone can relate to this feeling of being alone or out of their comfort zone at some point in life.  What really strikes me about feeling this way is if I had decided to pack my bags and ditch my roommate, I would have missed out on one of the best experiences of my life thus far — college.

I remember the first day of Freshman orientation, I was still in that “I can’t EAT ALONE” phase of my life.  I can thank myself now for being so insecure and uncomfortable at the time because that is exactly how I met my very best friend, Shelby.  I walked up to her table in the cafeteria with my food tray, my lanyard and forced out the words, “Is anyone sitting here?” and our conversation hasn’t died down since.  She is basically the reason why I didn’t give up and go home during those first couple weeks of school… and then it hit me laying in bed, it’s the people you meet that get you through these tough times.  It’s the person who walks into your life at the exact right time, sits down at your table and asks you the exact right question.

That’s what this experience is all about, the pilgrims, Los Peregrinos.  We’ve met so many unbelievably wonderful people on this trip, it’s almost overwhelming.  The second we start thinking to ourselves, “forget it, lets pack up and catch a flight home TOMORROW.  This is NOT worth it.” we meet another amazing group of people and they somehow encourage us at the exact right time, sometimes without even knowing it.  I guess we have them to thank for deciding not give up by now.  That is what we are trying to focus on instead of our problemos, our Peregrino friends.

We basically made it through the entire first day with the help of other pilgrims along the trail.  Whether it was pointing us in the right direction, spouting words of encouragement or sticking together during the hailstorm, everyone kind of muscled through it all with the help of someone else.  Right as we had reached the very top of the mountain and we were looking over the clouds, we ran into a group of loud Spanish women who offered to take our picture.  They didn’t speak any English but they were so friendly.  When we were saying our thank yous and goodbyes, they offered us some of their almonds.  I didn’t realize it then but I am almost certain if we hadn’t been offered those almonds, I wouldn’t be here to tell this story.  WE DIDN’T BRING ANY FOOD.  Are you kidding me?  An 11 hour hike, WTF is wrong with us?

The second spout of encouragement was after our hail situation, meeting the two Englishmen at the Pilgrim dinner.  We had just finished our first hike on the Camino and we finally made it to Roncesvaille completely soaked, overwhelmed, waddling around, I had a newly developed blister and we were both feeling pretty discouraged.  We were wondering if we would be able to complete the rest of the walk, let alone the next day.  These two men were our saving grace that night.  We were so consumed with everything that had just happened, we didn’t even realize what we had just accomplished.  They pointed out to us and reminded us that we should take a moment and just be proud that we made it through the first day.  My mom and I still talk about these two, wishing they would somehow reappear somewhere along the way.

We met a woman, Karín who woke from a nap on the side of the trail just as we walked passed.  She was incredibly calm, and fast paced at the same time.  She just kind of awoke from her nap, carefully pieced herself together, joined us on the trail and rather quickly passed us up.  We found out later after talking to her, she has a couple children at home and a son who had died seven years ago.  She had been backpacking for a couple months before our starting point which totally wowed us.  I am convinced that she is some sort of robot/animal/super hero.  It seemed as if she could endure anything and still power through it with all of her belongings hanging on her back.

We’ve been constantly running into these two Austrailian women.  What caught my attention the first time we saw them was that one of the women was wearing a full length skirt with TWO backpacks on.  She had one large backpack strapped to her back and another small one hanging from her chest.  We ran into them the first day a couple of times, passing each other up.  We didn’t conversate much except a few huffs and puffs and some gestures of “What the EFF did we get ourselves into?  This blows.”  It wasn’t until we made it to Pamplona where we decided to take our first real “rest” day and we spotted them “resting” too.  It was really sweet running into them because we all recognized one other in a city full of strangers.  It was a feeling of familiarity and it was comforting.  I came across them again when I walked a portion alone and we ended up talking a bit more.  I learned more about their life and I told them a little more about mine.  I’m not sure what it was about these two women but I was drawn to them.  One was wearing two backpacks and a full-lengthed skirt and the other was in a black shirt and jean pants, it was almost as if they wanted to torture themselves.  I have no clue why they were actually wearing these things but it intrigued me.

The next person that stands out to me is Benito, the german man.  I was alone when I found myself talking to him and he was just the most sweet company.  I mentioned him earlier.  His name wasn’t actually Benito but when he told me his German name, I must have looked like a gerbil trying to understand an algebraic formula because he quickly told me, “you can just call me Benito.”   He seemed to have walked up at the exact right moment, it was one of the only times during this entire trip when I felt truly alone.  I’ve been alone here and there but at this moment I was completely alone.  There wasn’t anyone in sight.  It even sounded like I was alone, just silence.

Then there was Barbara and Mark from California.  We were walking out of Puente de la Reina and we spotted a man and woman in shorts after we had just complained for a solid four minutes about how cold we were.  We just decided that our next purchase needed to be two pairs of gloves and these two were in shorts.  We ended up crossing paths and walking together for a while that day.  My mom and I both found them to be so sweet and encouraging towards each other and us as well.  When we made it to Burgos, we were wondering when or if we would see them again.  We were walking up to the Cathedral and out pops Mark and Barbara!  My mom and I agree that running into people that have made an impression on us when we are least expecting it is such a great feeling.

Lastly, the Loveless couple from Alabama.  That was their last name, Loveless.  We ran into the couple when my mom and I were trying to get into an exhibition on the Camino and its history in an old church building.  The man operating it didn’t speak English and apparently it was closed and open at the same time.  We decided we would go get some food and come back.  We were not surprised when we couldn’t find anything to eat because we seem to be constantly on the wrong eating schedule here.  When we are hungry, the bars are closed and they only serve food after 9pm or before 4:30pm and in between 1pm and 3pm.  Makes sense, right?  So we decided to drink away our appetite problems.  We found a seat outside a restaurant and had a couple beers.  The couple walked up and we asked them if they wanted to sit down and join us and they did.  They reminded us of home, they were so warm and welcoming.  We then find out they weren’t even on the Camino!  They were just passing through this village in Spain on their annual trip by car.

Moral of the story, people are great.  Here are pictures..

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We got to see a huge tractor take out an entire field of dead sunflowers the other day… really cool.  So we’ve officially seen a fully bloomed field, a dying field, a dead field and a field being harvested.  That was our “circle of life” moment.  The tractor took up the whole road and was coming right for us.  It made a sharp right and then started really loudly chewing up and spitting out sunflowers parts everywhere.

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Mom at dinner..

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Sheep in the street, nbd..

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This was our view one night when we stopped for a couple beers….

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My mom asked me one night, “Why are people calling us animals at the end of the day?”  My response was, “Um, you’re crazy.”  It turns out people are actually saying, “Animo!”  Which is a term of encouragement in Spanish. Kind of like, “We’ve got this!”

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HOLY guac. alright, I made up for the days of bad wifi and being too tired to post.  I’m taking way too many pictures at this point to keep up with doing them in order so it’s a scramble from here on out.  Enjoy!

Holy Pyrenees!!

I seriously do not know where to begin in telling you all about my experience in the Pyrenees.  I feel like a badass after surviving the day we had.  To help explain the seriousness of this post, there were a handful of moments that I was legitimately scared for my life and my mom’s.  I was planning, in my mind, the possibility of life flighting us out or how to some how catapult my mom over the mountain and into a bed safely.

We had two options of routes.  There was an easier route that went around the mountain and there was a harder route that goes up and over the top.  Ever since my mom became aware of this fact, she was planning on walking the one that went around the mountain, the easier one.  I, however, tried to convince her the entire time that she could totally do it!  Just to make sure everyone knows, I was not the one who finally convinced her into it.  The night before we started, we were talking to a man who was giving us our passport and he automatically assumed that we were doing the harder one, Napoleon’s route.  This gave my mom the confidence.  I know anyone who knew the story before hand, will think that I pressured my mom into the harder hike and try to blame me for the outcome but that isn’t the case, I swear.

We started the trek normally-ish.  We got up at the crack of dawn and left before the sun came out and for the first hour or so, there was no sunlight.  We were walking in complete darkness, I couldn’t even read the map.

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By the time it started to lighten up, we were sure we had missed the first source of water, that literally looked like a fountain, but we hadn’t.  We ended up not getting lost once!  I’m very proud of this fact because even though they say the Camino is marked really well, sometimes it’s just plain contradictory.  I kid you not, one sign had two arrows for our route and they pointed opposite directions.

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The first part of the hike, which was the uphill climb, was hard!  We were both out of breath.  My mom was definitely having a harder time than I but she kept up, sort of.  The elevation mixed with the incline mixed with a 25 pound back pack on my back mixed with a tired mom straggling behind me…. I was already thinking maybe we should have started with the easier route.  As the trek got longer and steeper, we started to lose enthusiasm.  But the road from Saint Jean to Roncsevalles is unbelievably stunningly breathtakingly gorgeous.  The entire route was covered with rolling hills of horses, cattle and sheep grazing calmly and just watching us walk on by.

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It was extremely foggy when we got near the top which made everything even more beautiful.

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It started to sprinkle at one point but nothing we couldn’t handle.  Once we were on the top, we were quite literally above the clouds.  It was postcard worthy.

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They had a little van parked in the middle of no where (super sketch if stumbled across in the states) that sold hard boiled eggs, bananas and tea.  I thought it was the cutest thing ever.

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We really enjoyed ourselves for a couple of hours when we leveled out on the trail. It seemed like we were almost alone for a while which was nice just walking in silence.

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Then it got serious.. And by serious I mean deadly.  We approach a crossroad (The sign that pointed two different directions simultaneously) and the map in my hand said DON’T go this way, the sign on the road said go both ways and panic sort of set in.  We were standing with a group of people and we tried to convince everyone that maybe we should go by the map that has a picture of that specific crossroad telling us with a huge X not to go left but nobody listened.  So we start down the map’s choice of path alone and it begins to rain.  About 20 steps down a vision of my mom slipping and me having to leave her to get help ran through my mind so we walked back to go with the group of people.  About 20 steps into this decision, the rain really starts in on us.. And by really I mean pouring rainstorm, lightning storm, thunderstorm, HAILSTORM.  Hail starts shooting us in the face and covering the ground under our feet.  Getting smacked in the face with hail after hiking for eight hours is not nice of Mother Nature.

Because we were up so high in elevation, the thunder was so close it sounded like it was IN my eardrum.  Hands down the loudest and closest thunder I’ve ever experienced.  Mind you, I love thunder storms.  Growing up in the mountains, thunderstorms were like movie night in our house.  We would all watch from the living room window snuggled next to the fire.  Never have I been literally caught in a hailstorm on a mountain range that I’m completely unfamiliar with.

We are in ponchos and still sopping wet.  The trail then begins the downhill climb, or should I say slide.  Our shoes are completely soaked, people are falling, lightening is flashing so close to my face I think it singed off an eyelash,  the water is getting so heavy and the incline is so steep that were basically walking down a flowing waterfall… With all of our belongings on our backs… So dangerous.

Mind you, my mom was exhausted 10 miles ago.  Now she’s soaking wet and slipping down a rock slide in The French Pyrenees.  She’s literally holding on to her walking sticks for dear life and hoping that the grip stays through the mud.  My mom is no wuss, but she was constantly taking breaks during the beginning of the trek. There were no breaks during this part.  If she took a break, I seriously think we wouldn’t have made it out.

In a normal hike, rain can be kind of nice, slippery but nice.  Cooling you off, almost like a refreshing mist.  But not hail beating down on me and thunder cracking so loud that each time it sounds like a tree has been struck and it is coming down on me.

Now a tiring three hours later, and a total of 11 hours hiking all together, we have finally reached a hostel and we are safe and sound in our tiny twin beds.   We met two of the sweetest Englishmen at dinner who heard our story and tipped their hats to us.  They were two young in-shape big guys, one an ex soldier, and they took the easier route route that day.  We felt pretty impressive.

Maybe for avid backpackers this story seems regular and hailstorms, rock slides and walking on waterfalls all sound like no big deal.  That makes me think two things..

1. I have SERIOUS respect for backpackers and campers because it is no easy task.  I’m not talking about people who camp out in RV’s or enjoy a nice long hard hike.  I’m talking about the people who sleep in tents in the deep mountains and fend for themselves in hailstorms.  You can’t control Mother Nature and she is one powerful merciless b—-.

2. It honestly made my mom and I want to quit.  Before the hike got crazy we started to lose our focus and then the last hour of the trek ended up turning into a three hour long fight to stay on our feet.  It just didn’t seem worth it.  Doing this day in and day out is seriously hard physically and mentally.  I already have a couple blisters that I had to cover with some piece of fabric in my mom’s backpack and my lower back feels like its bruised from my wearing my backpack for 11 hours straight.  What is 40 days straight of this going to do to my body?

The silver lining in this is my mom.  The old mom I knew as a child came out in the end of our experience.  For so long, my mom has been focusing all of her strength towards my dad’s fight, she hasn’t had a moment in the past six years to fight for herself.  I remember as a child, it felt like with her in my corner, I could take on anyone.  She’s such a strong and independent person, but she wasn’t able able to exercise these traits while my dad was sick.  She’s been fighting his disease right along side him and putting all of her efforts into nurturing him back to health.  This is a different kind of strength, being strong for someone else and it is commendable.  Today was almost like seeing her stand on her own two feet again (with the help of walking sticks).  Watching all the strength inside her come out was really inspiring.  She complained a bit in the beginning, when it was hard work climbing the mountain but when it got serious, she didn’t complain once.  She didn’t stop even though her legs were shaking and she felt weak. I was really proud.

I’m 23 years old and in good shape, my body is meant to endure these kinds of situations and I was barely making it down that mountain.  If I can survive a day like today when I’m 63,  that is something I’ll very be proud of.

Moral of the story, these past couple days have been some of the most intense days of my life.  The weirdest part is that I anticipated that being the case, and it still surprised me.  We are taking a day off tomorrow for the sake of our legs and for the health of my back.  The wifi or “wee fee” is horrible everywhere so I’m trying my best to write and upload in the small amount of time that our wifi actually works.